The first step is to get the jugs bead blasted to remove any paint or dirt.

A friend that works in a machine shop showed me  a scotchbrite wheel and what it did to aluminum. To say the least, I went looking for one! Could not find one in town and had to order one.

You can actually squeeze the grinder wheel so its not as hard as it looks but it really does well on smoothing out the cylinders.
You could just go at them with some rough sand paper but it would take you forever and don't think it would come out as uniform as mine did. This pad cost me $26 by itself.

These are just plain 120 grit cones, you should already have some of them. Keep working them into the cracks and they will point at the end, this will get most of the rough from the tight areas. I looked in a abrasive products catalog for these cones in bulk and saw that there are 3 different flavors, 120 grit, 220 grit and 320 grit, it would save some time if you could get some of the 320's, I didn't have but the 120's so I had to put in some extra sanding time.

Once you have gotten all that you can with them then you can get some abrasive rubber tips, these have a much more pointy tip and can get all the way into the cracks, much slower process since they are after all made out of rubber. They have different colors for the amount of abrasive that is in them.

Once you have gotten all of the rough from the cracks then you have to break out the good ole sand paper. Start with 280 till you have a uniform pattern. Move onto 400 grit and do the same, you will notice that its starting to take on a polished look and the marks or patterns in the cylinders are getting smaller and smaller. Once you have gotten it good with the 400 then one more time you will move up a grade to 600. Its a pain in the ass when you get the cracks between the transfers but you have to get the deep scratches out of them or it will look like crap.

This small kit came from sears and has a few different pads in them, be sure to polish the hard areas first so that when your making your final pass's that they can be nice and uniform. You can polish by hand but the mirror finish is not as deep and you will have scratches. All I did was to dip the tips into my jar of mothers doing a small area at a time and continue untill the mothers has turned dry and actually polishes off. Once again, you will have to work the tips into a sharper point than they come with so that the polish will get into the tight areas. If you see a problem with the area then just break out the sand paper again using the highest grit that you can to get the scratch out, after its been polised once then even when you do have to sand a area it comes back much easier. Once you have the entire half of the jug polished then put a decent amount of mothers on a cloth and go over it, don't work it much since this is to just losen the mothers that you left behind from the dremel so that it comes off easy and leaves a good layer of mothers for protection from the elemnts.